On Traveling and Fame

by zora on July 2, 2009

I worked as a freelance copy editor off and on for an awful lot of years at In Style Weddings. As a direct result, I eloped.

Not that I ever had dreams of a white princess dress, but after continued exposure to the minutiae of Tori Spelling’s signature cocktail, ways to insert your ethnicity into your ceremony, ways to insert your dog into your ceremony, gifts for your bridesmaids and other nuptial-alia… Just the thought of even the tiniest bit of wedding planning made me die inside. (And the word ‘nuptials’ still makes me gag.)

In much the same way, my other off-and-on copy-editing gig, at Us Weekly, has made me very, very sure I never want to be famous.

Well, OK–I don’t want to be Lindsay Lohan famous or even Meryl Streep famous. I cannot face having to smile at random people with cameras as I’m walking down the street. Nor the idea of some stranger coming up and saying, “Omigod! Omigod! Can you sign my T-shirt?”

I could stand being, say, Noam Chomsky famous. I would never recognize him on the street. Even if I did, what would I have to say to him? Smart, unrecognizable and with an air of intimidation–that kind of famous seems manageable. But still…why?

And it makes me wonder… Have the people who so desperately want to be famous–all those people clambering to get on reality shows–have they just never traveled?

Party Boat!Because let me tell you: Go stand on a corner in downtown Cairo, looking perplexed at the traffic and maybe wearing shorts. That’ll give you a taste of paparazzi-level fame in a heartbeat. It helps if you’re a woman, and have fairly light skin and maybe a little jiggle. But even without all that, you will still know what it’s like to have everyone in a five-block radius want a piece of you. Not necessarily in a sexy way, or in a money way, but just in a total-fascination-omigod-I-cannot-look-away way.

I have never been anywhere comparable to Egypt, where, for some reason, foreigners are still a totally mind-blowing phenomenon, even though they’ve been visiting the country for thousands upon thousands of years. You could make a good argument that Egypt has been courting tourists since ancient times, and yet still, no one is the least bit blase.

By contrast, when I was just in Spain… No one gave a damn. It was a little odd. I’d walk into a tiny bar in the middle of nowhere, and no one would bat an eye. I know I previously bragged about how I can pass as a Spaniard, but on the first trip I was with my white-haired mother (no dye job–obviously foreign) and on the second trip I had very obviously walked from the next village. No one even gave us a second glance. Ho-hum.

The strange emptiness I was a little embarrassed to feel may be what past-their-prime stars feel like when they go out in public. “Will they recognize me today?” they’re thinking, as they stroll the aisles of the drugstore. “Did that woman just double back to look at me again?” The closest we got to the glow of fame in Spain was occasionally in a tiny village, we’d be wandering around lost, and we’d pass an old man whose eyes were nearly bugging out of his head as you could see him thinking, “Ooh! Talk to me! Me! Ask me directions! Pleasepleaseplease!”

Who's the Most Beautiful Now?But in my experience, the sweet spot of famous–all of the respect, none of the sycophants and grabby crowds–is best simulated in Syria and Greece. Here, you’re accorded great respect and welcomed heartily. If people know something you may be interested in, they come up and introduce themselves. As a traveler, of course, these things are bit more pedestrian than VIP lounge access or whatever, but still, it’s nice to know where the best local spring water can be found, or which watermelon to pick from the roadside vendor.

And people give you lots of nice free stuff. In fact, I think this is much better than standard Hollywood fame. I would so much rather have a free glass of licorice drink than a crappy swag bag with a T-shirt and a few “luxury items” I’m never going to use. Extra sprigs of mint on my falafel sandwich, a “pay me next time” from the mini-pizza dude, a personal recommendation of the meaty pasta sauce from the train-station-cafe waitress–all these things make me feel like a Very Important Person.

But just as important: I don’t feel obligated. Getting crazy famous by definition means being blown all out of proportion–and when people find out you’re Just Like Us, well, they might be disappointed. And I imagine that could get nerve-racking for the famous person, leading to boozing, extensive therapy and Scientology. When you’re traveling, the attention you’re getting is based exactly on what you look like, right then, to the locals. If you’re not as thrilling as they’d hoped, well, that’s kind of their fault.

Getcher Tamarind Here!My dad has talked about traveling in Turkey in the 1960s, where he and my mom were often the most exciting thing to hit a village in years. People would come out and line the streets to look at them, and then when they got back to their hotel, people would be waiting, just to hang out and look at them some more. There were some long, awkward hours in their hotel rooms, while the locals waited for them to be interesting. That’s borderline bad famous, in terms of too much attention, but it’s also manageable–if these hotel-crashers got bored and left, so much the better.

So next time you feel like you’re not getting the public love you deserve, buy a plane ticket. It’s cheaper than a personal assistant, a Malibu mansion and the rehab you’d inevitably need after you made it to Hollywood. And in a foreign country, no one will take a photo of you while you’re eating.

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Brian Eno in the Kitchen

by zora on July 1, 2009

Thanks to vegetarian duck, I was entranced to read about the application of Brian Eno’s Oblique Strategies in cooking. I always knew I liked Eno, and I’d heard reference to the Oblique Strategies–a deck of cryptic cards for inspiration–but I didn’t know Eno had also discussed the Zen of cooking. It all makes sense now!

I’m a huge fan of constraint-driven creativity. Georges Perec fascinates, algorithmic psychogeography intrigues, The Five Obstructions delights me like nothing else.

But since I am, alas, not a filmmaker, my obstructions are to be found (or not found) in my fridge, and it’s what’s there (or not) that has made me devise my best dinners.

Or, I should say: not necessarily my best dinners, as in everyone at the table swooned, cheered and carried me around on their shoulders. But my best dinners, as in cooking put me in a relaxed, mindful state and the result was my vision, realized just as I had imagined, and all the choices I made in the process turned out to be the right ones. When I wash up the dishes after a couple hours of cooking and eating like this, I feel like I accomplished a small something.

When I wash up the dishes from a dinner where I followed a few recipes, and they kind of hit the spot, but everyone gushed about how good they were–enh. My head is too cluttered from looking back and forth at the typed-up stuff, and all the second-guessing of the recipe.

Double alas, however, I do not have an iPhone to download the (inevitable) Oblique Strategies iPhone app. So I will have to go analog. In preparation, I’ve just requested Eno’s book, A Year with Swollen Appendices, from the Queens Public Library.

Now how can I get Lars von Trier to come over and whip me into shape?

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Bjork Confirms: Syria Is Cool

by zora on June 29, 2009

Per NPR, Bjork is going to collaborate with a Syrian pop star, Omar Suleyman. Fantastic! I am a sucker for Middle Eastern synthesizers, and I trust Bjork implicitly. And if more people hear about cool things happening in Syria because of it, all the better.

I wish I were cool enough to say, “Oh yeah, Omar Suleyman…I’ve got all his bootlegs.” But I am too busy wallowing in old-school nostalgic Arabic music, like fellow Syrian Sabbah Fakri.

But Omar–he’s speaking to the kids today, rockin’ the rural style and gettin’ the ladies to do some serious jiggling.

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Spain Hiking Photos

by zora on June 26, 2009

Photos of the grand Spanish hiking excursion are up, all over at Flickr. Lots of pics of us looking winded and sweaty on hillsides, and some beautiful tomatoes and a very silly video of Peter trying out all the public gym equipment they have in the villages.

Also, there’s a separate set from our afternoon of “fonting”–kind of like birding, but looking for obscure fonts. And boy, there are some doozies in Granada. (AV, why did you never mention this? It seems so right up your alley… And the Auto Escuela Dorado right by your apartment!)

The photos contain the juiciest anecdotes, but let me just say, in brief: Peter and I may actually live to hike again. It’s hard to believe, but we enjoyed ourselves. Peter was such a convert, in fact, that he walked home from the East Village the other night. I’m not giving up my bike anytime soon, and I still feel a little embarrassed about being seen in public with a backpack (ooh, a matching backpack with Peter’s, no less! That’s what happens when you emergency shop on the day before your flight). But it was a good trip.

And as a guidebook-updating gig, it was fantastic. I could only travel so fast, and was not expected to travel any faster, which is the exact opposite of any trip involving a car and an impractical number of small towns. But I still didn’t manage to buck the Curse of the Missed Swimming Pool. This occurs whenever I have a night planned in a really nice hotel, and I think, “Ooh, maybe I’ll just be able to check in and chill out by the pool that afternoon!” No. Inevitably, my schedule gets jacked up, and there is no swimming or sunning or anything, after I check in at dinnertime, totally pooped. On this trip, it meant that the night we were scheduled to stay at the really lovely place, we got lost near the end of the day, finally found our way, slogged through the river bottom and clambered up the hill just as the sun set and a cold shadow was cast over the pool. We swam anyway, but it wasn’t what I had envisioned.

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Genius New Guidebook

by zora on June 25, 2009

nmeyesI mentioned New Mexico: A Guide for the Eyes a little while back, but I just got my advance copy (connections, baby!), and it’s available for preorder now. Release date is August 1.

If you’re planning a trip to New Mexico, or you just came back from there, or you just like the place, I heartily recommend this book. The concept — a guide to all the visual icons, from architecture to food to landscape — is so brilliant that it could change guidebook-land forever.

Every destination needs one — just think of all the times you’ve been traveling and wondered what a recurring symbol/dish/car was all about. The guide to New Mexico has entries for bolo ties, pawnshops, mesas, hogans and even lowriders. Perfect reading for pre-trip education, or while sitting on the patio back at your hotel at night.

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Back

by zora on June 21, 2009

OK, I got back last weekend. But per usual, am under the deadline gun (5 min to write this before my official noon work hour starts).

Entertain yourselves with the new Cooking in Real Time episode, all about…whoo-hoo, sloppy joes!

And re: the book title, I am crushed we didn’t think of Ducking Felicious in time. This is why I need Josh and Larra on speed dial. (I was explaining the dilemma to a British couple in Spain, and that was their first suggestion. The Brits–they are a little wittier.)

Forking Fantastic it is, and I got the galleys a couple of days ago. The cute factor with the new title is a little high. Somehow, Forking Fantastic thong underwear does not have quite the same appeal as F-ing Delicious underwear. A whole marketing angle lost…

11:59. Spain pics in a few days.

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Off to Spain today, to work on the LP Spain walking guide–basically the same turf as my April trip, but an enforced slower pace.

As I leave for the airport, there is still a kerfuffle over the title of mine and Tamara’s cookbook, which some of you may’ve heard about via Facebook last week. I am still deep-down appalled at the idea that American book-buyers allegedly can’t handle seeing the letters “f-ing” on the cover of a book (let me be clear: nowhere on the cover would “the fuck-word,” as the witty Joanna calls it, actually have appeared), and yet many much broader social indecencies seem to be no problem at all. Also, that plenty of men have books with bad words in the title, but apparently it’s just too shocking over in the girly cookbook stacks.

Also, though, I live in New York City, where expletives hang in the air thick as smog. So what do I know?

But crisis = opportunity, and all that. So the boss of a friend of ours suggested Forking Delicious. Dorktastic! We went with that.

Alas. Some ladies in Philadelphia have been using the phrase for many years, and even though I don’t see any step toward copyrighting or trademarking on their website, well, I guess it wouldn’t be fair. Plus, they only live in Philly, so it’s just a train ride away to rough us up in a dark alley. There are more of them than there are of us.

So, now. Leaving for airport in one hour. Title still up in the air. Fucking, arg, I mean Forking Fantastic is the top choice.

The one nice thing about this whole process (have I mentioned, the title had been settled for more than a year? and the last time we got nervous about it, three months ago, they assured us it would be totally fine?) is a friend of mine dug up this book, while searching for other obscene titles:

Fuck It: The Ultimate Spiritual Path

Premise is that “fuck it” is the Western equivalent of Eastern Buddhist detachment, etc. I feel so enlightened already! I’ll be breathing deep and saying “fuck it” all the way to the airport.

Probably not too much posting in Spain. We’ll be in the ass of nowhere most of the time, getting sunburned and eating ham.

Just entertain yourself by answering this poll, please. I’m curious…

Would you buy a cookbook title F-ing Delicious?
Hellz yeah! I love swearing and cooking.
No, thanks. Profanity is a crutch for the linguistically lazy.
Maybe. Do you have boobs like Giada’s?
Results

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Here Is Havana

by zora on May 27, 2009

Ooh, very promising: Fellow Lonely Planet writer, native New Yorker and generally perceptive gal Conner Gorry has finally started a blog about daily life in Havana:

Here Is Havana

Peter and I and a few other friends went to Cuba in 1996, I think it was. (Surely it’s OK to say this, and the statute of limitations has run out by now?) We were so mentally unprepared, it’s comical in retrospect. At the time, though, it was an extremely rough trip.

We didn’t fully grasp, for instance, that it would be impossible to get more money once there…and we didn’t know quite how expensive it would be. It was very difficult to get off the “official” tourist track, and the attendant 1-to-1 exchange rate. But even if we had, well, there wasn’t anything to buy with Cuban money anyhow. Our second week, we got by on one meal a day, and we rolled up to the airport with nothing but our exit tax in our pockets.

The situation was grimmest when it came to food. I still shudder when I think about the creepy, greasy fish we were served at the one restaurant we found where we could pay in Cuban pesos. My sentimental attachment to Communism was pretty well chipped away on that trip, when I realized that the system truly just failed at feeding people, much less giving them the real, simple pleasure that can come from delicious things to eat every day.

I hope this has changed a bit in years since. When we visited, farmer’s markets were just starting up, as a very controlled experiment. The few times we got fresh produce, it was fantastic. But, whoa, that was so not a trip about kicking back on the beach and eating fresh pineapple. Still, when I returned to the Dominican Republic, I was appalled at the slums and the advertising everywhere…and I really appreciated the pineapple on the beach.

So, looking forward to reading Conner’s reports, as it sounds like various policies have changed since I visited. I especially want to know about the food!

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